FSX & SLI

[Nick N]

@ 2.1v

That's why I want you to run it for a bit before we go any further  ;)

[Black ZR-1]

I just can't get over how smooth it's flying





EDIT: Frame lock @ 20

Crash free so far @ 2.1

[Nick N]

I just can't get over how smooth it's flying





Crash free so far @ 2.1

Yep.. frames are for addicts and gamers, not simulators.  ;)

It looks like you have a good balance of scenery too. Not so much it looks thick under the aircraft, which makes the distance look bare.

The idea with setting up autogen is not just about loads. Its about getting the level of items that display balance in the foreground and background distance. If you had a huge amount of autogen close to the plane you would notice the distance was very bare.

By reducing the numbers so you get a nice show around the aircraft but not packing it on thick, the system has the resources to display more autogen in the distance so the bare spots are less noticable. If you go even a small amount too high, spot trees and houses start to show in the distance and that gives away the illusion that the area in the distance is not bare of scenery. Its a bit of a visual trick.

When we start working with the memory timing it may be possible to drop it back down to 2.0v. we will have to see how that fairs.


I will post some settings soon to start working with and if you remain stable, go ahead and start playing with them.

The next step will be to increase the memory timing and then start working the FSB and memory buss up until it becomes unstable. Once we hit that wall we will increase the timing again until we hit the next wall.

If I can get you to 1333/333.5 that is where we will stop because without special cooling on the processor such as a Zalman replacement, heat may start to play into the equation. The northbridge part of the chipset on the motherboard will most likely start getting very warm if not hot around that point too.


I got the message about setting THREADED OPTIMIZATION to OFF in the Nvidia driver panel. I had asked about that earlier in the thread and I am glad you shut that down. Leave it off for Intel Conroe processors unless the game is truly multithreaded.

[Nick N]

Well I went to 3 computer stores and the only power supplies I could find were either 800 or 1000 watt and there was no way I was going to spend $300.00 on a power supply.

Nick, I have an Ultra, not an Antec.

Ultra 500 Watt V Series Model # ULT-500P

AC Input - 115/230V

+5V/32A, +3.3V/20A, +12V/28A

What you have there is right at the edge of what I would consider powerful enough to run the system. That would be without my typical 20-25% leway in reserve juice. To run the video card it is suggested that you have a 400W power supply with +12V current rating of 26A or more. You have 480W @ 28A in the 12v rail and the 80W difference is helping you skimp by. I would not add any other device (CD, HDD, Fans) to that system on the current supply.

It will run the system but it may start to break down if the processor and the video card are both clocked. It is not a bad power supply, especially because it only runs ONE rail. I like that and the best power supplys on the market only run one rail. The second best typically run 2 and the ones that are trying to pull a fast one on the advertised watt rating, generally run 3 or more.


The botom line is, you have definitely pitted the power in and out at just about the same values so what happens next is unknown and will depend on how well the unit is constructed. The motherboard being run happens to be one of Asus's power suckers as compared to their other offerings in the same series.

As for an upgraded supply without breaking the bank: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817163111

I like to see at least an 80% efficency rating on PSU's (PC Power and Cooling runs 80-85%) however the one I posted comes in a touch short at 78%. Most cheapo's have an efficency rating at 72% or less. Still, with the rails at: +3.3@38A, +5V@40A, +12@38A, -12V@1A, +5VSB @2A and a Sanyo Denki fan which should run quiet, the power supply is worth the asking price. The 12 volt rail has a 45A peak rating so I see that supply working very well.

That one would also leave room for addding hard drives or other items and still have a good reserve.



As a reference, power supply sales are a very sneaky game. This power supply which costs 159 bucks:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817103926
+3.3V@30A, +5V@30A, +12V1@17A, +12V2@18A, -12V@0.5A, +5VSB@2.0A


is actally LESS powerful that this power supply which costs 90 bucks:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817194009

+3.3@32A,

[Nick N]

The next phase of this comes with risks. When ever a system is being tested for clocking there is a risk the Windows registry and system files can be damaged if Windows should crash during a high clock test. We are about to exceed the design ratings of the components and as such anything can happen. I do not see anything bad happening but I must tell you that there are risks from this point forward.


Make sure you have a copy of the settings I gave you to set things back up the way we had them in case of a CMOS clear. Supplement the numbers below for the memory:


Enter the BIOS and make the following changes...


MEMORY TIMINGS: MANUAL

T (CAS): 5
T (RCD): 5
T (RP) : 5
T (RAS) 15
T(RC): 19

ADDRESSING MODE: 2 Clock


F-10 Save and Exit

Re-enter the BIOS and make the following changes.



NEW FSB 1260
NEW MEMORY 630

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:

NEW FSB 1280
NEW MEMORY 640

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1300
NEW MEMORY 650

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1320
NEW MEMORY 660

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1333
NEW MEMORY 667


DO NOT exceed the last set of numbers.


Here is how this works. Let

[Black ZR-1]

Well I went to 3 computer stores and the only power supplies I could find were either 800 or 1000 watt and there was no way I was going to spend $300.00 on a power supply.

Nick, I have an Ultra, not an Antec.

Ultra 500 Watt V Series Model # ULT-500P

AC Input - 115/230V

+5V/32A, +3.3V/20A, +12V/28A

What you have there is right at the edge of what I would consider powerful enough to run the system. That would be without my typical 20-25% leway in reserve juice. To run the video card it is suggested that you have a 400W power supply with +12V current rating of 26A or more. You have 480W @ 28A in the 12v rail and the 80W difference is helping you skimp by. I would not add any other device (CD, HDD, Fans) to that system on the current supply.

It will run the system but it may start to break down if the processor and the video card are both clocked. It is not a bad power supply, especially because it only runs ONE rail. I like that and the best power supplys on the market only run one rail. The second best typically run 2 and the ones that are trying to pull a fast one on the advertised watt rating, generally run 3 or more.


The botom line is, you have definitely pitted the power in and out at just about the same values so what happens next is unknown and will depend on how well the unit is constructed. The motherboard being run happens to be one of Asus's power suckers as compared to their other offerings in the same series.

As for an upgraded supply without breaking the bank: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817163111

I like to see at least an 80% efficency rating on PSU's (PC Power and Cooling runs 80-85%) however the one I posted comes in a touch short at 78%. Most cheapo's have an efficency rating at 72% or less. Still, with the rails at: +3.3@38A, +5V@40A, +12@38A, -12V@1A, +5VSB @2A and a Sanyo Denki fan which should run quiet, the power supply is worth the asking price. The 12 volt rail has a 45A peak rating so I see that supply working very well.

That one would also leave room for addding hard drives or other items and still have a good reserve.



As a reference, power supply sales are a very sneaky game. This power supply which costs 159 bucks:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817103926
+3.3V@30A, +5V@30A, +12V1@17A, +12V2@18A, -12V@0.5A, +5VSB@2.0A


is actally LESS powerful that this power supply which costs 90 bucks:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817194009

+3.3@32A,

[Black ZR-1]

[quote]


The next phase of this comes with risks. When ever a system is being tested for clocking there is a risk the Windows registry and system files can be damaged if Windows should crash during a high clock test. We are about to exceed the design ratings of the components and as such anything can happen. I do not see anything bad happening but I must tell you that there are risks from this point forward.


Make sure you have a copy of the settings I gave you to set things back up the way we had them in case of a CMOS clear. Supplement the numbers below for the memory:


Enter the BIOS and make the following changes...


MEMORY TIMINGS: MANUAL

T (CAS): 5
T (RCD): 5
T (RP) : 5
T (RAS) 15
T(RC): 19

ADDRESSING MODE: 2 Clock


F-10 Save and Exit

Re-enter the BIOS and make the following changes.



NEW FSB 1260
NEW MEMORY 630

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:

NEW FSB 1280
NEW MEMORY 640

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1300
NEW MEMORY 650

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1320
NEW MEMORY 660

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1333
NEW MEMORY 667


DO NOT exceed the last set of numbers.


Here is how this works. Let

[justpassingthrough]

I just can't get over how smooth it's flying





Crash free so far @ 2.1

I'm jealous  :o

[Nick N]

[quote]




I ran out to Best Buy (oxymoron) this morning before I got a chance to read this.

[Black ZR-1]

[quote]


The next phase of this comes with risks. When ever a system is being tested for clocking there is a risk the Windows registry and system files can be damaged if Windows should crash during a high clock test. We are about to exceed the design ratings of the components and as such anything can happen. I do not see anything bad happening but I must tell you that there are risks from this point forward.


Make sure you have a copy of the settings I gave you to set things back up the way we had them in case of a CMOS clear. Supplement the numbers below for the memory:


Enter the BIOS and make the following changes...


MEMORY TIMINGS: MANUAL

T (CAS): 5
T (RCD): 5
T (RP) : 5
T (RAS) 15
T(RC): 19

ADDRESSING MODE: 2 Clock


F-10 Save and Exit

Re-enter the BIOS and make the following changes.



NEW FSB 1260
NEW MEMORY 630

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:

NEW FSB 1280
NEW MEMORY 640

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1300
NEW MEMORY 650

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1320
NEW MEMORY 660

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1333
NEW MEMORY 667


DO NOT exceed the last set of numbers.


Here is how this works. Let

[Nick N]

I re-read this and realized my system hanged at 1333/667 & a complete crash at 1320/667 when I attempted those settings.

http://www.simviation.com/cgi-bin/yabb2 ... 157609/195

I will return the power supply tonight on the way home.

Yes, but that was at the memory timing of 4-4-4-12 1Clock

We raised those numbers in my new instructions so the memory will relax and allow the clock to go higher



That is the art of over clocking.,.. knowing what numbers to change to get the system to boot higher FSB and DDR

[ATI_7500]

Nick, just a wee question.


What pattern are you using for overclocking system memory frequencies?

Or is there one at all?


Plus: Does the meory bus clocking affect north bridge temperatures?

[Nick N]

Nick, just a wee question.


What pattern are you using for overclocking system memory frequencies?

Or is there one at all?


Plus: Does the meory bus clocking affect north bridge temperatures?

Of course there is a mathematical process. It is based FIRST on the components being used and their specs/abilities

IE: AMD, Intel, Corsair, OCz or the memory product, timings, Vcore max with stock or advanced cooling, Vdd with stick limits, Vdroop on the motherboard, northbridge limits, if AGP the AGP/FSB lock, BIOS settings available, power requirements for desired components and clocks, power supply efficency and rating,etc, the list goes on

I have evaluated the products and come up with a base evaluation. The rest is calculation based on the system being used. In this case the math is as follows:

RAM clock = Bus speed x 2
For example, Core 2 Duo default bus is 266mhz, so 266x2 = 533mhz

His memory sticks are rated at DDR667 or 333.5Mhz with a certain timing list (SPD of 5-5-5-15 /19) unknown CDM rate

The following is based on his 1.8gig processor and its internal multiplier:

Since his bus speed is quad the 1233mhz / 4 (LTD 4x) = 308.25FSB or 616.5 DRAM (which will round itself in the display)

To keep your mem speed 1:1 with the processor at 1233 FSB, you must clock the RAM to 616. (616x2 = 1233)

You can also say the RAM speed is 1/2 the bus clock. Which ever is easier for you.

[Nick N]

Here is another example of a screw job with power supplies:


Silverstone PSU's

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817163109

This is a 4 rail supply and when you see 3 or more, be ALERT for a screw job
ST60F: Max. DC Output 600W

[Nick N]

[quote][quote]


The next phase of this comes with risks. When ever a system is being tested for clocking there is a risk the Windows registry and system files can be damaged if Windows should crash during a high clock test. We are about to exceed the design ratings of the components and as such anything can happen. I do not see anything bad happening but I must tell you that there are risks from this point forward.


Make sure you have a copy of the settings I gave you to set things back up the way we had them in case of a CMOS clear. Supplement the numbers below for the memory:


Enter the BIOS and make the following changes...


MEMORY TIMINGS: MANUAL

T (CAS): 5
T (RCD): 5
T (RP) : 5
T (RAS) 15
T(RC): 19

ADDRESSING MODE: 2 Clock


F-10 Save and Exit

Re-enter the BIOS and make the following changes.



NEW FSB 1260
NEW MEMORY 630

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:

NEW FSB 1280
NEW MEMORY 640

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1300
NEW MEMORY 650

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1320
NEW MEMORY 660

If that boots the computer and makes it into Windows, reboot and set:


NEW FSB 1333
NEW MEMORY 667


DO NOT exceed the last set of numbers.


Here is how this works. Let