Pedal Question

[Mobius]

Okay, I'm new at this whole gutting a joystick thing and everything, but I figured I would give it a try.  Here goes, when I get the "part" out of the joystick, the spinny part (sorry for the technical terms ), the potentiometer I believe (the word just came to me somehow ), what circuitry would I have to keep in order for it to continue working and to have it work correctly.  I have the basic design and everything worked out, just don't know how to connect it to my computer

Thanks for the help guys

[TacitBlue]

Your joystick should have 1 circuit board wich you need to keep. Any buttons or other potentiometers that are attached by wires can be cut off if you want. heres what mine looks like... dont know if it helps but - Weee, I got to use my digital camera!  ;)


This board is what tells the computer what this is, and how to work with it. Consequently, the comp still thinks its a joystick, but that dosnt matter as you can assign any axis to rudder control in FS.

BTW, mine was a Saitek "cyborg graphite" - cheapo wal-mart joystick.

[Mobius]

Awsome, thanks Tacit, that does help

[JBaymore]

OBS,

Welcome to the "Dark Side" of the SimV habit  ;).

Take a look at some of the past threads and links on rudder pedal design.... there is lots of info here.

You can hook up other potentiometers to the SAME connections that the original ones had on the pcb (printed circuit board) ..... but you need to have the SAME VALUE of resistance as the originals.   Take care in soldering... the joystick boards are typically pretty "cheap".  Don't use too much heat.

The potentiometer resistance is measured in Ohms.  A simple cheapie multimeter (from someplace like Radio Shack) will let you test the existing pots to see what maximum value they are/were.  (Handy tools for simpit use.)  Some joysticks use 10 K Ohm pots.  Some use 100 K Ohm ones.  Some use other values.  

There are typically three wiring connections on a potentiometer back to the pcb.  One is the common side, one is a fixed value that is the total resistance of the pot that doesn't change at all, and one is the variable leg....that goes from zero Ohms to some value.  Make sure that you get the connections right.  It typically won't hurt anything in this application.... it just won't work.  

Good luck.

best,

..................john

[Mobius]

Oh man  Maybe I got myself in over my head.  Do you, or does anyone know of anywhere I can do some reading or something on the wiring and soldering aspect of this all, I don't have too much experience with that.  I should have no trouble with the mechanical aspect of the pedals, just knowing which wires to cut and which boards to keep.  Any help directing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated, I don't want to make you guys spend too much time on me though so if there are any links to anything helpful, that would be great, thanks.

[TacitBlue]

Dont worry about it, its not as complicated as it sounds (though Im not really an expert), just use the pots that came with the joystick. You know they will work with it, they did before right?

How many circuit boards (PCB) are in your joystick? should just be 1, and you need to keep it. As I said before, that is what (in basic terms) tells your computer what the joystick is and how to work with it. Feel free to ask any questions, if I cant answer then Im sure John will be able to.

[JBaymore]

OBS,

I would imagine that if you did a Google search on the word "soldering" you'd find some sort of tutorial.  

It is not hard...... like anything involving eye hand coordination.... a bit of practice and you learn a lot about how it works.

As Tacitblue says, if you can re-use the same pots... that simplifies things.  If you have to remove it or extend the leads.... just keep track of which wire goes to what spots.  Then put them back the same way  ;).

best,

.................john

[beaky]

I'm planning on keeping both boards from my hacked stick; no need to delete any part, really. I'm going to stick the whole deal in a little project box and hide it in the base of my pedal unit.
As for learning to solder: Practice on something else first! The key things: tin (apply a thin layer to) the tip before you start,then tin the wire AND the terminal. Heat the parts as you solder, not the solder itself (let the heat of the parts melt the solder), and when you're done, look at the solder on the connection you just made. If it's shiny, you're good. If it's dull, that means you cooked it too much, and it will probably fail on you. You can use a plunger-type "solder sucker" to remove it (after reheating), or even a small frayed piece of cable to sort of wick it up. Usually, though, you can get away with freshening up the wire and terminal with some more solder, as long as you didn't apply too much solder in the first place.
And... always use rosin-core solder, not acid-core... that's for plumbing.

[SilverFox441]

If you want to learn to solder check out:

http://www.circuittechctr.com/guides/7-1-1.shtml

Very good material, well written and accurate.

The pictures at:

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderpix.htm

Can be very helpful as well...it shows you what the proces should look like.

Like any other skill it comes better with practice...a few dollars spent on a breadboard kit and some wire at Radio Shack (or other electronics place) can give you something to practice with. In no time at all you will be a pro.

Feel free to ask any questions...I've used everything from a fine-tip low wattage iron to a blow torch for soldering (each for it's own task). I even keep 3 irons on my bench for various tasks.

[Jared]

well huh, I've been soldering on my own for years now, and you know what? I've been doing it right!  :o

Amazing as I've had no experience let alone watched anyone before!

[SilverFox441]

Easy to teach yourself the required skill...but recognizing cold joints is a little harder. The second link shows several types of bad joints, nicely showing what you should look for.

Very easy with a little practice.

[Mobius]

I've been soldering things also every now and then, been doing it just like welding though, mostly the same though.  Doesn't hurt to just learn again though.  ;)

Also, does anyone know a way to switch from the gameport to USB connection?

Thanks again...

[JBaymore]

Mobius,

There are adapters that you plug a gameport item into that switch it to usb.  Try the local computer hardware store.

I am sure they can be built too if you are a soldering iron jockey.... but don;t know the schematic off hand.  Do a Google search on "gameport to usb" and "schematic" and see what you find.

best,

................john

[Mobius]

Great, thanks.