Bonfire night 2

[61_OTU]

Hi all,

as well as the landscape shots I took on Bonfire night I had a go at some portrait ones as well.

For info I used my tripod, and a variety of different camera setting to ensure I got some useable results. As it was every shot was ok, but some were better than others due to the fireworks that came up at the time. None of them were ruined by focus or shake issues which seem to be the main problem I have had with any kind of night-time photography.

Basic setup was 400d mounted on tripod with standard kit 18-55 mm zoom. I used auto focus on a point at the far side of the car park at about the distance I expected the fireworks to explode, then set to manual focus, and reframed on the display area. This meant that the camera was not hunting for focus with every shutter press against a black sky. Shutter priority (Tv) and ISO-100 so I could maximise the shutter time in the low light. I used timed release (10 second countdown timer) on most of them to try to avoid any camera shake from pressing the shutter button, I need to get myself a remote

[Roughrider]

Great shots Steve, I like how you explain how each shots was done, great help in understanding whats going on. Thanks For Sharing, Mark

[Rifleman]

Fine shots here.......you've done well........ 8-)

Night photography can be so rewarding .....when I started it, I was amazed by the things I got to see without anything more than sheer luck , but as you go you will soon get a feel for a starting point ..........for this kind of thing (fireworks) I would go to full manual and stay around f8 - f11 and a shutter speed of 30 seconds

[Willit Run]

Nice work!!!

These shots are great!!!!

Cory

[61_OTU]

Fine shots here.......you've done well........ 8-)

Thanks Ken, I had my first attempt at firework photography last year with my Fuji, I went prepared this time  ;D

I used Manual a few weeks ago when taking pictures of the kids for the School calendar, set the aperture and shutter myself, and used the in-camera light meter to assess the light prior to a shot. I find the in-camera meter quite useful in this respect, you can use Av or Tv to get a rough idea of the suggested settings, dial it in manually, and use the light meter to ensure that not too much is changing in the ambient light from that point on. I got some much more consistent results this time around, which require virtually no changes to the white balance or levels in comparison to last year

Steve

[Craig.]

Great shots mate

P.S. I'll have my car fixed this week, so I should hopefully have you up in the loop testing out the new lense pretty much whenever your ready.