Simviation Forums

I have this whiz-bang 22-inch, widescreen  LCD monitor. It makes my pictures get fat from east to west. How do I restore the pictures to a proper ratio with respect to the left-to-right and top-to-bottom?. I'm usin' XP for da Home...

Do you mean when you open, in example, a family photo, the image is streched and distorted?

It sounds like the monitor is not set to the correct native resolution the factory desinged for it.

I would need to know the model number and manufacture to look it up.

Settings to change the monitor resolution, and also make sure the color depth and refresh rate are correct are located in the display properties. Easiect way to get there is to place the pointer anywhere on the desktop (not on an icon.. just on the desktop) right click and select PROPERTIES. Inthe box that appears, select the SETTINGS tab. You can change the SCREEN RESOLUTION to the factory default native size and make sure the COLOR QUALITY is set to 32 Bit. Click APPLY when finished.

Most LCD monitors run at a 60 Hertz refresh rate but some have the ability to run 75Hz. I would need to look up the monitor to know for sure and you dont want to set the wrong refresh rate. That setting is found by clicking the ADVANCED button on the same box I mentioned above, then click the MONITOR tab. A drop down box will show the refresh rate options for the monitor. As I said, most LCD's run at 60 depending on the resolution but some run 70-75.

It's pretty good all around except for the above problem. It's a Westinghouse LCM-22w2, so readeth the cartonage. It beats the hell out of the one I had before this one. I don't even remember the brand name of the last one, it was such a disappointment. I await your response with high anticipation. Thanks.

Rootbeer

I know you are not a computer wiz but there are some things that may be wrong which will require you to do a little tech work to find out what is going on. It

You are correct, Nick. The card has those connectors. I have an adapter to plug in the D-sub connector. So you are telling me this is the wrong type of connector to be using?

Thanks for your input...

You are correct, Nick. The card has those connectors. I have an adapter to plug in the D-sub connector. So you are telling me this is the wrong type of connector to be using?

Thanks for your input...

Its like this my friend... the card is DVI-D out so you want to keep the signal on the DVI-D standard.

The D-SUB converter will work but my video card is DVI-D, I would keep my signal to the monitor the same.

As for changing the cable and everything will fix itself... I cant say that. I know the monitor needs to be set up using its internal menu and Windows and the Drivers need to be set up for the same signal.

There have been people here who I have advised to get the right cable who come back and tell me it made a huge difference, others have said they could not tell any difference. I have always run the same cable as the ports on the card and the monitor and have never used a converter.

The DVD-I signal is the cleanest and has the least conversion issues. If the video card uses that, so should the monitor.

OK; I'll get a DVI-D connector. As for getting the drivers right, that I will leave to my computer guru a few blocks up the street. I am going to put a new WD hard drive and an OEM version of Windows XP on this machine. It is so full of spyware and viruses and other detritus that my FS experience is not one to remember. Thank you so much for all the information.

OK; I'll get a DVI-D connector. As for getting the drivers right, that I will leave to my computer guru a few blocks up the street. I am going to put a new WD hard drive and an OEM version of Windows XP on this machine. It is so full of spyware and viruses and other detritus that my FS experience is not one to remember. Thank you so much for all the information.

If you want to keep the critters out of your surfing and your system... after it is wiped clean, reinstalled, updated from Windows Update,

OK; I'll get a DVI-D connector. As for getting the drivers right, that I will leave to my computer guru a few blocks up the street. I am going to put a new WD hard drive and an OEM version of Windows XP on this machine. It is so full of spyware and viruses and other detritus that my FS experience is not one to remember. Thank you so much for all the information.

If you want to keep the critters out of your surfing and your system... after it is wiped clean, reinstalled, updated from Windows Update,  here is the solution:

NOD32   www.eset.com


The best 50 bucks a year you will ever spend. And you can fly with it running without any loss of resources. It scans your browser, office docs and email.

Less than $50 a year, I just renewed for $29. But agree best damn program there is since running it I have not even a hint of anything trying to invade my systems.

I just visited the eset site. There is a graph there telling me my current infection ratio is 0.6 percent and my threat level is normal. Is that an actual live assessment of my machine right now or something they just put there to induce a purchase? What does a 0.6% infection ratio mean, anyway?

I just visited the eset site. There is a graph there telling me my current infection ratio is 0.6 percent and my threat level is normal. Is that an actual live assessment of my machine right now or something they just put there to induce a purchase? What does a 0.6% infection ratio mean, anyway?

No Rootbeer that is just an internet monitor many security sites use to display the current status of virus attacks on the internet. It has nothing to do with your system.

The infection ratio is how many systems are being infected by the bugs currently going around. Something of interest but not to the typical user.

Applying/running a new AV program to a system that has already been infected and has a virus or trojan payload fully delivered is no guarantee of getting rid of the bugs. It may help but once a system is fully infected the AV can be limited in what it can do to completely remove virus content. Where AV protects is on the front line when the virus or trojan is introduced to the system the first time. A good one stops it dead and does not allow it to execute its payload. A cheap one either misses some, or misses a trick that allows a virus, or part of it, to slip by. Some virus and trojans also shut down AV without you knowing. The program looks like it is running, but it isn't.

If you are fully infected I would recommend the system be wiped clean, the hard drive have zeros written to it using special DOS software and then Windows and all the software reloaded, along with all updates from Microsoft update be installed. With the AV on a clean system it will catch what attempts to get in well before it can execute its harmful functions. Unless you have a tech that knows what they are doing in manual search and destroy of all bugs, and really gets them all, that would be the safest and best course of action to ensure what you have already taken in can not hide somewhere on the drive and come back again.

I have even seen some that hide in the boot sector of a hard disk. Even if their sibling is destroyed on the main partition, they deliver another to the system as needed. Without special training and software tools, the only way to truly kill a boot sector bug is wipe out the boot sector... which is write zero's to the hard drive in DOS as I mentioned above.

OK; I'll get a DVI-D connector. As for getting the drivers right, that I will leave to my computer guru a few blocks up the street. I am going to put a new WD hard drive and an OEM version of Windows XP on this machine. It is so full of spyware and viruses and other detritus that my FS experience is not one to remember. Thank you so much for all the information.

If you want to keep the critters out of your surfing and your system... after it is wiped clean, reinstalled, updated from Windows Update,

I have decided to get a new hard drive and a boxed version of Windows and start all over again. How do I save all the stuff I have on the present drive and put it on the new drive? I have so much in the way of downloaded wma, avi and mpeg stuff that I do not want to go back and do it all over again. The drive in the machine now will go into an enclosure. Would I be cutting my own throat to take stuff off that drive and put it on the new one? What about just keeping the infected drive in the enclosure and accessing it only as needed? Would I be opening the door to trashing the clean drive?

I have decided to get a new hard drive and a boxed version of Windows and start all over again. How do I save all the stuff I have on the present drive and put it on the new drive? I have so much in the way of downloaded wma, avi and mpeg stuff that I do not want to go back and do it all over again. The drive in the machine now will go into an enclosure. Would I be cutting my own throat to take stuff off that drive and put it on the new one? What about just keeping the infected drive in the enclosure and accessing it only as needed? Would I be opening the door to trashing the clean drive?

check your PM... gotcha covered