Simviation Forums

Hello Joystick Mechanics/Electricians!

Joystick: Logitech, Force-Feedback, Wingman Force 3D.

Some of the potentiometers inside the joystick are in desperate need of spraying with a contact cleaner/lubricant, (WD40), as they are now reading erratically, particularly the twist potentiometers.

Does anyone know how to dismantle the complete joystick, especially the base?

I have removed all the visible screws in both the base and the handle, including the two hidden screws at the base of the handle.

The handle itself seems to be glued together!
The 5 Allen Key screws in the handle flange do not appear to serve any purpose, they just rotate!

Has anyone ever managed to remove the base..??

Cheers Lads, for any assistance..!

Paul...(Electrical/Electronic Engineer).

Hi Paul. I looked up on the net and couldn't get hold of anything. I had two such sticks, but like many people I sent them packing and switched to Saitek.
They have probably used glue around the edges.  :(

Hi Paul. I looked up on the net and couldn't get hold of anything. I had two such sticks, but like many people I sent them packing and switched to Saitek.
They have probably used glue around the edges.  :(

My poor old Joystick(s) get a right old bashing...!
They are in use up to 12 hours a day, every day of the week, while I joyfully chuff around the Globe... ...!
Mechanically, they survive quite well, it's the occasional electrical problems that I suffer....
...my previous lovely Microsoft Sidewinder FF Pro, suffered a power supply fault on the internal printed circuit board which could not be cured... ...!

The Logitech Wingman serves my purpose perfectly at the mo', apart from this "dirty potentiometer" problem in the twist function which causes to aircraft to yaw erratically on it's own... ...!

For the type of fixed wing/flexwing aircraft which I ALWAYS fly, the single purpose joystick is better for me....
...the Saitek X45 type, 2-piece devices are better aimed at Helicopters, which I avoid like the Plague...!!

It would be nice to cure the problem with my existing joystick... ...!

Paul... ...!

Can't really help you with your wingman surgery, but maybe you can drip something inside the handle or base in hopes of soaking that rudder pot, I dunno. I would advise you to use a proper electronic parts cleaner/lube, though, not WD40, which is not the best long-term lube, being more for water displacement between metal parts than prolonged lubrication of things like pots and plastic ball joints ("WD40" stands for Water Displacement [Formula] #40) , and it might harm some of the plastic or rubber parts inside the stick.
I'd go with a cleaner/lube formulated specifically for electronic parts.

Other than the temporary nuisance of getting used to it, and the fact that the throttle's on the left,  I think you might find you like the X45 (or the X52)... it's really not helicopter-oriented, it's just useful for choppers because of all the buttons, etc. that allow you to do things without letting go of throttle or stick for even a moment. Rudder control is on the throttle handle, so there's no inadvertent cross-controlling when working ailerons or elevator (one of the problems I had with my old twisting joystick).
It's the perfect solution halfway between a single joystick and the fairly expensive yoke-with-throttles-on-top units, which also require rudder pedals...
 

Foz, you are getting the exact same problem I was getting (the twisting grip performing erratically, causing the rudder to move all around the place).
As you know, we have the same joystick.
So you think that the potentiometers may need some cleaning; maybe, but I didn't use the stick that much and I'm under the impression that it was born that way (although maybe this behaviour has gotten worse since I bought it).
I didn't try to dismantle it so I'm afraid I can't help you there, but I can tell you that I decided to use the pedals of my Logitech steering wheel set for the rudder, and now I won't be coming back, no way! It's a whole new world, MUCH more realistic, and I strongly advise you to do the same. Keep the stick and get a cheap wheel+pedals set.

Foz, you are getting the exact same problem I was getting (the twisting grip performing erratically, causing the rudder to move all around the place).
As you know, we have the same joystick.
So you think that the potentiometers may need some cleaning; maybe, but I didn't use the stick that much and I'm under the impression that it was born that way (although maybe this behaviour has gotten worse since I bought it).
I didn't try to dismantle it so I'm afraid I can't help you there, but I can tell you that I decided to use the pedals of my Logitech steering wheel set for the rudder, and now I won't be coming back, no way! It's a whole new world, MUCH more realistic, and I strongly advise you to do the same. Keep the stick and get a cheap wheel+pedals set.

Hi Friday...!
As always, the joystick is perfect when new, but over a period of time with costant use the various potentiometers start to play up, which is mostly cured with a contact cleaner/lubricant...(WD 40 is a multi-purpose cleaner/lubricant/water repellent used in the motor/electrical trade, is always at hand, and is fine if used with care)...  ;)...!
My trouble is...I cant get the bleedin' joystick apart to operate on it's internals... ...!

LOL...!

Paul... ...!

Note: The problem shows up graphically in the joystick properties/test page... ...!

Couldn't you drill a small hole into the casing. Then, poke that little straw thing you get with a can of WD40 through that hole and give it what for?




George... Always full of good ideas....

....... micro surgery, I like it!

Couldn't you drill a small hole into the casing. Then, poke that little straw thing you get with a can of WD40 through that hole and give it what for?




George... Always full of good ideas....

LOL...!

Have you any idea just how many individual potentiometers there are in the Joystick...?
...apart from all the force-feedback electric motors and linkages...?

The inside of a force-feedback joystick is as complex electrically and mechanically as the inside of my unfathonable Video Recorder...
...trust me..

Drilling a small hole in it will merely allow a small quantity of air and spiders to enter/exit... ...!
LOL...!

Paul... ...!

Come on Lads...surely someone must have taken one of these bleedin' things apart before now... ...!
LOL...!

Really, you should consider a set of rudder pedals.
Even if you succeeded at dismantling the joystick without breaking something, you would have to do this again and again. And the way the twisting grip performs is very, very poor... not worth the hassle IMHO.

Really, you should consider a set of rudder pedals.
Even if you succeeded at dismantling the joystick without breaking something, you would have to do this again and again. And the way the twisting grip performs is very, very poor... not worth the hassle IMHO.

...don't try and put me off, Friday.........!

In Fozzer's book of magic, if something is fixable, then Fozzer is obliged to fix it...
My whole working live was built around the rules of Fixing Things*.... ...!
I have fixed more fixable things for desperate folks than you can possibly imagine....
...and never once got paid for it... ...!

LOL... ...!

Paul...General Dogsbody/Fixer... ...!

* ...like carburettors, etc......!

Folks queue at my door every day begging me to Fix Things for them... ...!

then "go your own sweet way"  ;)
oh and btw if when you succeed post a description of the procedure

put it in a bath of WD40, let it soak few hours, then let it dry few weeks....

sorry nothing better, as mine is working properly...

did you try to set a larger neutral point on this axis? it won't solve the problem but allow you to fly, at least...

vince

Unfortunately, it seems that the "dead zone" concept is reversed in FS2004. Instead of applying a dead zone around the center, it applies it on the edges! As a result, by widening the dead zone one is actually narrowing the maximum extension of the controls. The sensibility around the center stays the same. This at least is what happened to me.

I don't know for FS9, but logitech provides a software called profiler which allows you to set your joystick just as you need.
and you can set the deadzone... may be good to try.
otherwise, I think FSUIPC must be of help for that purpose, but don't ask me as it looked to tricky, then gave it up to set my joystick.

vince