CH Eclipse Yoke problem

[Robertoga]

Hello,
I am using a CH Eclipse yoke for a time. From the beginning, it has had a problem with the pitch control: it does not reach its center, but an undefined zone of about 11/2 inches (It has nothing to do with the nullzone, establishet on a 12%). I think it has about too much friction or too feeble springs, or both. Would anybody be so kind of telling me a solution?
Than you very much.
Roberto

[OldAirmail]

I'm a little confused. Pitch can be handled 4 ways.

There is a wheel on the left side of the body. Normally you might have to adjust it once, and never touch it again.

There is a vertical wheel on the yoke itself. I love the convenience of this wheel.

And there are the internal springs (which I dislike as being noisy). These aren't intended to be adjusted, but can be with a lot of trial and error involving elastic bands.

But I'm wondering if you have saved a flight with the trim out of sorts. Each time you start to fly the plane will want to go up, or down, without you knowing why.


As a last thought, I recall seeing, somewhere, a discussion on aircraft being out of balance and how to resolve it.

[Robertoga]

Thank you, OldAirmail,
I try to explain to you:
I ignored the purpose of the wheel on the body.
I refer to the control of pitch attitude (nose up & down, by the elevators, pushing or pulling the yoke): the shaft of the yoke may cause the problem. When pushing (or pulling), and then let go the yoke, it does not come back to its neutral position, but to a position that differs from the center (neutral position) 3/4" at each side, leaving active a little pitch up or down attitude.
I trust that you can understand me, in spite of my english and explanation skills.
Thanks and kind regards.
Roberto

[OldAirmail]

By the way, welcome to SimViation.


OK, basic questions. No offense intended.

Is this a new yoke? Did you just buy it?

If it is not new, how long have you had it? Did it ever work right?


Have you calibrated your yoke? If not then;

Is the yoke is plugged in and installed as directed by the manufacturer's instructions?

Usually the software has to be installed before the device is plugged in.

To Calibrate
Go to Settings


Select the controller type


Click on Calibrate


Chose the "Game Controllr", and Ok


Follow the instructions (this part always confuses me. I use the calibration procedure from pay-ware called FSUIPC)

[Robertoga]

Hello,
Thank you very much, OldAirmail Captain, for your bother and efforts in helping me.
Yes, I have bought the CH yoke new, and installed, calibrated and set up according to manufacturer's instructions. But I have not used it a lot, because of the lack of accuracy aforementioned (and I prefer flying with my Logitech joystick).
The trouble has a mechanical cause: the recovery power of the springs is not enough to compensate for the friction of the yoke shaft when releasing it. Maybe I am wrong, but I think it does not make sense trying to solve the problem with software adjustments.
And maybe I should buy a new CH yoke. (I own too a Saitek yoke, but I don't like it a lot, because of its more conplicated way of attaching to the table, its size and its lack of integrated rudder controls.
Thank you again.
Roberto

[OldAirmail]

Hello,
Thank you very much, OldAirmail Captain, for your bother and efforts in helping me.
Yes, I have bought the CH yoke new, and installed, calibrated and set up according to manufacturer's instructions. But I have not used it a lot, because of the lack of accuracy aforementioned (and I prefer flying with my Logitech joystick).
The trouble has a mechanical cause: the recovery power of the springs is not enough to compensate for the friction of the yoke shaft when releasing it. Maybe I am wrong, but I think it does not make sense trying to solve the problem with software adjustments.
And maybe I should buy a new CH yoke. (I own too a Saitek yoke, but I don't like it a lot, because of its more conplicated way of attaching to the table, its size and its lack of integrated rudder controls.
Thank you again.
Roberto

If that is the problem then there is a solution. Or two.

The first is a VERY simple solution - white Lithium grease.


This if far far better than ANY other lubricant for plastic on plastic.


This can be applied without taking the body of the yoke apart.

Clamp it to a table. Pull the yoke back towards you. Rub a small amount of lithium grease all around the black shaft. Push the yoke away from you and do the same to the back part of the shaft.

Move the yoke in and out a few times, turning the yoke handles left and right.

Once the shaft is well coated and well distributed, lightly wipe any excess off the shaft.

You will have to do this once a year.

If you let your hands sag while holding the CH yoke the shaft tends to catch & bind . After this, the yoke will move in and out smoothly.




If that doesn't make enough of a difference there is more that you can do.

I have taken my yoke apart a couple of times with the thought of adding more switches to the body. My best advice is to make sure that you have very good tips on your screw drivers. And put the white grease on the screws BEFORE you put the screws back in.


Watch these 2 videos to see if you want to try this second method.

Inside the CH Products Yoke



CH Products Yoke Modification

[OldAirmail]

Just a few stray thoughts

- Any white lithium grease will do. As far as I know one brand is as good as another.

- Get the smallest tube that you can. It'll last a long time.

- I recall reading, somewhere, that the Saitek yoke may have a problem that white lithium grease may help.

- White lithium grease works on a lot of other material, not just plastic. One special feature is that it doesn't dry up, or gum up.

[Robertoga]

Hello,
Thank you again, OldAirmail Captain,
I'll proceed as you tell me in the first solution; and will keep you informed.
Thanks and regards.
Roberto

[OldAirmail]

You're welcome. I hope it works well for you.


As to the "captain" below the name, we all have a title below our names. The more you post, and the longer you stay on SimViation, the higher your rank.

All that the title Captain means in my case is that I've never flown an airplane drunk.

[Fozzer]

Rubber bands instead of springs.... ....

The normal springs are always far too strong, especially when extended!
I carried out the same modification to my Steering Wheels (for Cars and Trucks, etc), replacing the springs with rubber bands with just sufficient tension to centralise the mechanism, and no more, for far less stress on the mechanism, and a more realistic, finger-tip action!

Problem(s) sorted!

Paul....18 Wheels of Steel.... ...!

P.S When did an English "Leever" become an American "Levver"?.... ...!

[liquordealer]

I think this might solve your problem... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXNaKxtUNMg It will show you how to replace the springs and adjust the tension.

[Robertoga]

Hello,
Thanks to you all. I think the change of the steel springs for rubber bands will be the final solution, and it is what I am going to do.
Thanks again, and kindest regards to all of you.
Roberto