Simviation Forums

1) I need to change brake pads. Refinish rotors. (Two front wheels)
2) Fix Power Steering Leak
3) Change valve seals.

I will try to replace the damaged hose and fix the leak myself. Would I save a lot of money if I did #1 and #3 myself? Ofcourse, I would have to bring the rotors to a shop to be refinished and buy new pads and seals. Is #1 and #3 difficult to do for someone who doesn't know too much about cars? The most complicated things I've done so far is changing spark plugs and oil. However, I would like to learn how to fix things myself instead of spending money on a mechanic. It is a 1992 Toyota Tercel so it is a simple car.

If I understand #3 correctly, you want to replace the intake/exhaust valve seals? I dont think this would be an easy job for a beginner to do. I know in the few engines that I have rebuilt, the whole head assembly will need to be taken off. Then you will need a "valve puller" to pull the valves off, then you replace the rubber seal and do the process again backwards. I find working with those valves getting them back in was a royal b****. The valve springs will keep bouncing back so you wont be able to get the valve keepers back in place to hold the valve back in !


For number one, that should be a simple 15 minute job.

And for number 2, I dont know where the leak is at, but it is probably a rubber line or gasket, so it shouldn't be too hard to fix.

Good luck

Disk brakes are a doddle to work on. Okay unscrew the cap of the hydraulic fluid but leave it in place (this should stop spillage and make things a LOT easier). Then jack up the car and put it on chocks of some sort (secure ones not piles of bricks).
Now somewhere on the brakes you'll find a retaining pin (normally a brass thing about 4-5 inches in length). Ping it off with a screwdriver. Then look for a retaining bolt normally with an allen key head. Loosen it off and you should now be able to force apart the two sides of the piston and lift the caliper clear of the disk.
The pads will drop out. Coat the two pistons (one top and one bottom) with a little Copper Ease keep their movement good and make the job easier in future.
Now plonk in the new pads and position the caliper back on the disk. Put back the retaining bolt and then the butterfly clip.
Once you've done the other side as well put the wheels back on, lower the car, put some serious tension into the wheel bolts then screw the cap back onto the hydraulic fluid reservoir and pump the brakes a few times to build up a little pressure and get the brakes aligned evenly against the disk

On some cars.. valve seals aren't that difficult. You don't have to remove the head.. Just the valve-cover, cam shaft and related hardware..

I noticed that there is white smoke when you start up the car, however when the car is up and running there is no smoke. I just want to decrease oil burn. There is an emission test coming up so it could come in handy. It is not a necessity though. However, the brake work is, and it shouldn't be expensive.

It has 298 000 kilometers. Yes, it will be aproaching the car's value. However, there is no way you can buy a good car for $500. Even a couple thousand won't cover it. The way I see it, the cost to keep it running will be lower than anything it costs to get a decent car.

I noticed that there is white smoke when you start up the car, however when the car is up and running there is no smoke. I just want to decrease oil burn. There is an emission test coming up so it could come in handy. It is not a necessity though. However, the brake work is, and it shouldn't be expensive.

If it's white smoke then that is not oil burning. When oil burns it comes out a blueish smoke.

Slight oil burning smoke can look white. The only purely white "smoke" a car can make is steam.. from some sort of coolant leak..

Unless you see it using up hundreds of dollars in oil in the near future. I'd live with it. There is no way you can open up an engine with that many kilometers on it and be able to walk away with just putting valve seals in..

could be a sign of the head gasket going I believe. didn't rotty have a simmilar problem recently?

If it's a diesel engine then it would only just be truely run in at that mileage.

First, get a good repair manual for your particular auto(Hanes & Chilton are good).
Disk brake pads are easy enough for the weekend mechanic. Depending on what type of rotors you have, they may need replaced instead of having them turned. This would also be a good time to check the rubber brake lines, front suspension, steering ball joints, bearings, CV joints(Front wheel drive), and lubrication. ALso check the brake fluid. If it is dark or more than two years old it should be replaced.
Replacing power steering hoses may require some special tools. There is a high pressure and low pressure hose. The high pressure hose is generally a smaller diameter. The hoses are generally available at any good auto parts store. It would also be a good time to check the fluid for metal fragments or a 'silvery' color. This would indicate more repairs are in your future.
Valve seals can be changed without removing the cylinder head depending on the type of seal. Worn valve guides, on the other hand, cannot be changed without head removal. Spring removal tools can be rented. To change a seal remove the spark plug and insert a threaded air fitting the same size and thread as the spark plug. Turn the engine until that cylinder's piston is at top dead center. Now carefully fill the cylinder with enough compressed air to hold the valve closed but not so much as to move the piston. Depending on engine type remove valve rocker arm or camshaft. Remove spring and seal. Replace seal and install spring. Repeat for other cylinders.

could be a sign of the head gasket going I believe. didn't rotty have a simmilar problem recently?

I still do, sort of... after all that work, it still emits a big, brief puff of white smoke, but only on the first start-up of the day. I haven't been driving it much at all lately so I haven't worried about it, but I guess I'll have to bring it back in... they might just need to re-torque the head bolts.