Why I now hate oil filters...

[OldAirmail]

I've seen the screwdriver thing work, but that was a very long time ago. As you said, the sides were probably thicker or better made.



I take it that you have the round base left? The part that screws in?

Try gripping that part with this - Irwin Vise-Grip Oil Filter/PVC Pipe Pliers, 9 L, 4 In Open

[Steve M]

First, it was installed incorrectly, as you know. If someone put it on without lubricating the rubber gasket the rubber can vulcanize and seal it to the engine block. So.. Make sure you have the car jacked up enough to have easier access and use jack stands for safety. Now douse that thing withWD40 several times at 1 hour intervals and let it sit overnight. The next morning peel back the shredded metal and start tapping the top part of the filter with a hammer and a sharp pointy drift, counterclockwise, and as close to the threaded area as you can. If that doesn't work try to bend the upper metal plate enough to clamp a pair of vicegrips on it and hit the vicegrips counterclockwise. I know there isn't much room too work with so a longer drift may be needed. See if that helps and good luck.

[Steve M]

Or of course use OAMs vicegrips idea. If you have room for the handles. On a Toyota Corrolla for example there is no way to get that wrench close enough.

[Steve M]

You aren't bursting my bubble. I was just trying to help, sorry.

[OldAirmail]

Car work is so much fun that I gave up on it along time ago.

Eventually the area inside the engine compartment became too crowded.

A large part of my life has been lived out, either working for employers who provide a vehicle, or in situations/locations where I didn't need one (such as living within walking distance of work).



The last time that I did anything more complicated than changing the spark plugs was when I lived in Minnesota. A starter motor went bad in the middle of winter.

The high temperature there, in winter, is normally in the mid teens to -20 below (-9 to -17 Celsius).

I took a bus to work, until one day when the weather suddenly went up to about 35 degrees. EXTRODINARY for mid December!

I crawled under my old Buick in a T shirt, took the old starter motor off, bought a new one, and had it all done in only a few hours (bus to the auto parts store included).



As to what Steve said - "The next morning peel back the shredded metal and start tapping the top part of the filter with a hammer and a sharp pointy drift, counterclockwise, and as close to the threaded area as you can."

I've used a large screwdriver against that rim. Hit it at an oblique angle to loosen it up. And use a good screwdriver where the tip isn't rounded. You want that tip to gig into the metal, but not to cut deep into it.

You now know almost everything that I know about automotive work.

[OldAirmail]

That does look bad. Leave the keys in it and hope that someone steels it.


What I've used was a flat blade screwdriver. Many people have such screwdrivers, where the tip has rounded off from use.

You want 90 degree angles on the tip so it'll dig in to the metal. A worn out tip will glance off the metal without digging in.



If you can't come at it from the side you may need a long screwdriver and hit it at a very sharp angle. MUCH less effective.

[Bass]

It looks like some amateur mechanic has turned your oilfilter on with tools! It should only be turned on with hands.
Taking it off (normally) you can use almost everything, a chain, a rag, or something long enough to bend around a screwdriver and turn against clock

[BLAZE]

This was the best type I found for damn near all type automotive makes and models I worked on. I've even used it for other jobs when I
couldn't find the RIGHT tool for the job. I used to be that shade tree dude down the alley. now my knees hurt so damn bad that I'm lucky
if I can even sweep out my car.

I've had problems with oil filters in my time, but this one you have takes the cake brother. Anyway, If it looks like that picture you showed us
earlier, What I would do is (after the WD-40) take that screwdriver like OldAirmail said and put it right at the top of the filter where it makes
contact with the block and give it a couple wacks strait on with a hammer to give the screwdriver something to grip into. Then angle it and hit
it light at first to get a good bite, then wack the shit out of it.

That has worked for me in the past. Even without the WD-40.

[CrashII]

Change oil every 3000 miles (4800km)? Who told you that? On a Subaru Impreza you only need to change oil every 20,000 - 30,000 km. Depends how hard you use it.

Next time don't use force to get an oil filter off. Hitting it with screwdrivers, hammers and what not can damage to oilfiltermount, leaving you with an useless engine. If it doesn't move on a first try, drown it in lubricant. If it still doesn't move, put oil back in the engine and get a pro to do it.

[Fozzer]

The enormous satisfaction that one achieves from whacking an obstinate object with a very big hammer, outweighs the cost of replacing the complete engine.... ...!

...I reckon!... ...!

Paul.... ... ...!

[OldAirmail]

"...you only need to change oil every 20,000 - 30,000 km..."

20,000km = 12,427.4 miles according to Google.

30,000km = 18,641.136 miles. Again, according to Google.


That might void any warranty here in the US. If he had one on a 1997 Subaru, that is.

3,000 miles isn't all that much for many people, although I do it on the 5,000 mark.

[PhantomTweak]

Especially with the new synthetic oils (Castrol Syntec is my preferred version) one can easily get away with with the 5K mi oil change, ESPECIALLY with a decent filter. Please note that the Fram filters are at the BOTTOM of the list of choiches, btw, with Purolator on top. The filter media and constructioon of the interrior are why. I used to live in Yuma AZ, with an average daily high of around 100* F, and it made sense to keep the oil clean and fairly fresh. Got into my change habits then You can tell how your oil is holding up, btw, by getting a little on the first finger and thumb, wiping it mostly off, then rubbing them together. The easier they move, the better the oil is hanging in there. You will see, by testing a little new oil vs a little very old or oil that got very hot what the difference in feel is. Don't even need to be a pro mechanic!

I am, if no one noticed, Radar Tech btw, and not just a swap-n-pray type. In my day we trouble shot to the bad component (transistor, whatever) and replaced THAT, not just swapped out a card and hoped for the best. Having said all that, I was very fortunate at my last job, the Aerostat in Yuma (yes, that particular baloon there!) and after being promoted to management I worked night shift, 1900-0700, 7 days on 3 off. I LIKE nights! Anyway, we had crews composed of both mechanics and electronic types to maintain and fly the Aerostat, and they were ALL extremely good and very professional. I learned a lot of mechanical stuffs from just watching the mechs at work, and now I do most of my own automotive work.

The oil filter wrench shown in Blaze's post is a good choice, as well as what's called a "strap wrench". Basically a fabric strap in place of the oil filters wrench's metal band, and a set up to use a normal socket set driver ratchet rather than the handle. with a breaker bar on the ratchet you can REALLY appy some torque and break loose almost any frozen oil filter, without damaging the engine, altho the filter can may crush down and twist a bit. Best thing is, the harder you wrench it, the tighter the fabric band gets! Makes life MUCH easier over all.

[OldAirmail]

I'm happy to hear that! Congrats.

There are a lot of things that can give you trouble, even when they were done right.

[BLAZE]

****************************************

It took a good long while and the filter literally looks like it was shot with a 12-guage...BUT! It's off!

LOL! That's Funny!

Yep, I've had a few of those in my time brother. Glad it worked out for ya man. It is a real good feeling to see and feel
that bugger start to turn. whether it's a stubborn ass oil filter or that last bolt or screw that refuses to give up without a fight.

[PhantomTweak]

We used to call the effect BFFI (pronounnced biff-fee). Stands for Brute Force and F*&^in' Ignorance

A well known tactic of Plane captains and Power Plants types!

Of course, us tweaks would never EVER use the "hit it with a rubber mallet" troubleshooting technique! Nope, not us ever!

Glad ya got it fixed finally! Any idea on what went wrong the last install? Maybe just a bad gasget on the filter?

Anyhow, enjoy driving your own car again!

Pat~